Highlights

Weaving through four sites in North India that served as seats of religion, learning, ancient civilization and history.

Two popular sites

A prominent seat of religion that goes back in time

Bliss

Temples to me have been iconic of splendor. Of grandeur. Of exquisiteness.

Amidst the bustling little city of Amritsar that hosts a small airport with a single entry and exit gate stands the impressive Golden Temple or the Harminder Sahib.

Tens of thousands of devotees and visitors step into the expansive compound, heads covered, hands and feet washed, with sounds of rhythmic prayer chants wafting through the air.

The magnificent temple glistens in the morning sun in all its golden glory, reflected in the water it stands in. The golden aura of the temple dances with the moonlight as night falls. Serpentine lines of devotees move at a slow pace into the Sanctum Santorum, to bow to the holy shrine of Granth Sahib.

Across the temple, the Langhar hall awaits to fill the hungry beings. Plates filled with food sumptuous to satiate even the Gods doled out to devotees. Young and old. Rich and poor.

Thousands of volunteers prep, cook and clean, all day, dawn to dusk. There is no one turned away hungry. There is no one that does not want to give their hand to help in return. There is no one that leaves without bliss.

I am in awe at this religion. A religion seeking out to humanity. A religion taking care of society. A religion at its best.

A site that reminds one of our history, times of brotherhood, war and bloodshed!

Brotherhood?

Heat. Dust. Long roads. I see a sign “Lahore 26 KM” from the fogged window of our car. I am as close to Pakistan as I can ever imagine.

Attari in India and Wagah in Pakistan separates the two countries is a strip that looks as innocuous as a welcome sign at the edge of any city.

That India and Pakistan are rivals in no way diminishes the daily ritual of camaraderie with a ceremonial parade of each military group including a handshake symbolizing friendship over a country divided.

Patriotic music blaring with thousands of spectators on each side, the parade is a spectacular sight. A parade of two armies and their distinctive drills.

The two flag posts proudly crossing each other at the closed iron gates are lowered in perfect precision and folded by each soldier. The gates open for a quick handshake between the Indian and Pakistani soldier and the retreat back to their posts.

Legend has that this ceremony launched in 1959 has never ceased even in the midst of wars to date.

Patriotism palpating on both countries, I wonder about the war zone and the rivalry. Are we separated by mere land, but not by hearts?

Two unusual sites

An ancient seat of learning and scholars

Divinity

A University to me has always seemed divine, just like a place of worship. But to step onto the worn grounds of Nalanda Mahavihara (in modern day Bihar), felt more divine that I could imagine.

Existed 1600 years ago but only to be destroyed 800 years ago, the sight of the remains of this place of worship brings you joy alongside tears of sadness.

The truncated walls remain as tall as they can. The drainages still in place as though they are ready for the monsoon rains.

The library walls look bare without the books they once bore proudly.

The gardens with their pathways in and around various building sparkle with the greenery even in the blistering heat.

A university that once brought many a scholar from over the world now stands lonely. Waiting. Waiting to be resurrected. Waiting for the academic splendor.

An ancient Civilization and its remnants to tell us the story of humans

Mounds

They’re but ordinary looking mounds of earth, brown earth, we walk on daily. But, under these very ordinary mounds, lies a civilization that existed thousands of years ago. Of people, of society, of cities and everything a civilized world we now claim to live in and possibly more we can imagine.

To be precise, 11 mounds excavated since the 1960s, revealing what we know as the Indus Valley civilization of Harappa and Mohenjo Daro that existed over 5000 years ago with humans, tools, roads, bricks, drainage and more.

As we unearth, what else will we find? Will this humble us? Will this teach us?

We don’t know what we don’t know. Truly overwhelmed and amazed at an arduous trip to Rakhi Garhi, that took us over 4 hours each way from New Delhi, over little villages and dirt roads, passing by locals herding their goats, sheep, buffaloes and cows, in rhythm with the heat and dust of the countryside.

In perfect harmony with an ancient civilization.

Perhaps they indeed are the fortunate ones!