Portugal
Cover: Jeronimos Monastery, Belem
Portugal is not your typical European destination in many ways. Not glamorous, no pristine Alpine scenery or lakes in the mountains. You might love it if you are from the colder parts of Europe and come here for the Sun. For me, Lisboa is a fascinating city, full of life, with good food and music, a mix of modern and old charm. Walk the narrow streets, ride the noisy trams, visit old churches, ruins and museums, enjoy the coffee, the food and simply chill by the river or ocean. Porto offers all of these and the Douro valley as wine country, the Algarve offers beautiful beaches and Sun. There are tons of smaller places to explore from north to south.
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(A) Lisbon (B) Sintra (C) Porto (D, E) The Algarve
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Tidbits
TIDBITS (+ to open, - to close)
To get around cities or smaller towns in Portugal, you walk everywhere or take the trams when they are not crowded. Try the tuk-tuk. Uber is really cheap and works well. Metro (trains) and buses are convenient and easy. Buy a city card for ease of transportations, attractions and discounts. In places with tourists, English is mostly understood and spoken.
Currency used in Portugal is the Euro. The ATM fees are very high. One can easily use credit cards everywhere as long as you are aware of any foreign transaction fees charged by your credit card company. With zero transaction fees, it is best to use credit cards.
Use either C or F adapters but it is better to take Plug C since it is thinner and will fit all outlets. Portugal power is 230 V and 50Hz.
Language spoken is Portuguese and most times you can manage well with English in tourist spots. It is very hard to communicate with the drivers in any public transport. In the interiors, English is almost absolutely not understood.
Summer is hot and packed with tourists. Spring and Fall are great seasons to visit and cheaper too. Winter is cold in the northern parts like Porto. Check out best times to visit Portugal by month and events.
About the blog
Writing and pictures by Jyothi Shankar.
Portugal Highlights
The below sections suggest activities for about 2 to 3 weeks in Portugal.
LISBON
HIGHLIGHTS (+ to open, - to close)
- Terreiro do Paco in Praca do Comercio, is one of Lisbon’s most iconic squares is one of Lisbon’s most important and beautiful squares and a symbol of the city’s history. Near the Tagus River, the arch of Rua Augusta feels like the main entrance to the city, facing the harbor. The arch and the square speak of grandeur.
- Wander on Rua Augusta and its nearby streets for food, street music, tons of souvenir shops and more.
- The beer museum at the square boasts of 80 kinds of beer.
- Spend time by the river Tagus. A good view of the 25 April bridge and Christ the Redeemer. If you want to get to that side called Almada, you can do so from Cais do Sodre’ station. You can sail on the Tagus by booking a tour.
- Walk along the river to Cais do Sodre to the Time Out Market for a variety of food stalls. In the day time, the market has a profusion of flowers, produce etc
- Visit Rossio square that is about bustling streets lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants.
Chiado, Bairro Alto and Castelo Jorge
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- Sao Jorge castle (you will see this from most points of the city). Perched on a hilltop, this medieval castle offers fantastic views of Lisbon. Explore its towers and courtyards. The tram #28 feels like an adventure as you take it up to the castle. A couple of breathtaking views from two viewpoints as you head to the castle.
- The #28 tram touches many interesting sights, taking some of the narrowest alleys!
- Take the Santa Justa elevador to Chiado and the Carmo Convent. Also visit the Carmo Archaeological Museum next to this convent.
- Rua Garrett near the elevator is a cool street with artists. There are good shops that are part of a mall and others.
- Check out the Sao Roque church not far from the Carmo convent.
- Wander the Chiado district – it is a vibrant neighborhood filled with elegant shops, theaters, and lively cafes. It’s an excellent place for shopping, people-watching, and enjoying Lisbon’s artistic atmosphere.
- From a visit to the convent, checkout the nearby garden of São Pedro de Alcântara in Bairro Alto and then ride the Gloria funicular down to Restauradores.
- Near Restauradores, walk along Avenida Liberdade, a tree lined wide avenue and lovely with some high-end shops.
- If you walk down one of the main streets from Chiado towards the river (walking downhill), you are likely to look down on Pink Street from a bridge.
The Alfama
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- Explore the Alfama. It is like stepping back in time and offers a glimpse into the traditional way of life in Lisbon. Still is old, vibrant and very fascinating. A good place to relax in a restaurant, listen to live Fado singers.
- Don’t miss drinking some Ginja (short for Ginjinha), a Portuguese liqueur being sold by women standing in front of their homes and selling a glass for a Euro. Its Ginja berries and sugar in alcohol.
- A walk along the R. do Remedios to the 12th century Se’ Cathedral (aka Lisbon Cathedral) is the oldest church in the city and is a must see.
- Try to visit The National Tile Museum in Xaberegas which is not far from the Alfama area. I attended a tile painting class there.
- Lisbon has so many museums and its certainly worth visiting a few. The Museum of the Orient explores the connection between Portugal and countries in Asia. Find more museums here.
Belem
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- Visit Belem Tower/Torre’ de Belem which is a symbol of the age of discoveries.
- Admire the Explorers monument by the water.
- Visit the magnificent Jeronimos monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It also houses the tomb of Vasco da Gama.
About an hour away from Lisbon
Travel to Sintra and stay atleast a night in Sintra and don’t rush it as there is much to experience:
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- Pena palace – This colorful palace perched on a hilltop is one of the most iconic sights in Sintra. Its got a mix of architectural styles and stunning views. It is a nice hike up to the palace if you like your exercise.
- Moorish castle (Castelo dos Mouros) – Located on a hill overlooking Sintra, the Moorish Castle offers panoramic views of the town and surrounds. On a cloudy day, or in early morning mists, it is magical.
- Quinta da Regaleira – This is an amazing attraction with elaborate gardens, mysterious grottoes, and the Initiation Well—a deep spiral staircase that leads underground.
- Monserrate Palace – Surrounded by lush gardens, this palace is an architectural blend.
From Lisbon or Sintra, you can visit these other places that are less than an hour away
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- Cabo da Roca – the westernmost point of mainland Europe. Coastal views, rugged cliffs and dramatic scenery. Some good coastal hikes.
- Cascais if you have time for the beach, marina, some historical sights and shops.
Here are some self-guided walking tours:
https://www.gpsmycity.com/gps-tour-guides/lisbon-515.html
https://devourtours.com/blog/walking-in-lisbon/?cnt=IN
https://lisbonlisboaportugal.com/Alfama-Lisbon/Alfama-district-lisbon.html
The more time you have the more streets and alleys, more steps you will discover in Lisbon. As you walk uphill there are always good views of something or the other and always good food and drink! This link is a great resource for details of Lisboa.
The innumerable staircases, steep and inclined streets, add to the city’s unique charm and character. It has various forms of transportation. The iconic yellow trams navigate the narrow and winding streets, helping people go up and down the hills. Additionally, elevators (known as elevadores) and funiculars connect lower and higher levels of the city. These elevations and miradouros offer stunning viewpoints across the rooftops, the river, and beyond. Some of the well-known ones are Miradouro Sta. Luzia (blue tiles, bougainvillea and grape vines to add to the beauty of a picture), Miraduoro Senhora do Monte the highest, Miradouro do Castelo de São Jorge, Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara et al.
PORTO
HIGHLIGHTS (+ to open, - to close)
City of bridges, river, sea, gorgeous cathedrals and wine valley
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- Ribeira District: Explore the charming Ribeira district, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Wander through its narrow streets lined with colorful buildings, enjoy a meal at one of the riverside restaurants, and soak in the lively atmosphere.
- Dom Luís I Bridge: This iconic double-deck iron bridge spans the Douro River, connecting Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. Take a stroll across the upper level for panoramic views of the city and the river. Walk from the bridge level to the level of the river via narrow alleyways.
- A boat ride on the Douro river crossing several overhead bridges is a wonderful experience.
- São Bento Train Station: Admire the beautiful tilework at São Bento Train Station. The station’s entrance hall is adorned with exquisite azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history.
- Clérigos Tower and Church: Climb the iconic Clérigos Tower for panoramic views of Porto. Next to the tower, you’ll find the Clérigos Church, an impressive Baroque masterpiece. Check timings and tickets before you go.
- Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto): Visit the Porto Cathedral, a medieval church located in the historic center. Explore its intricate architecture, cloisters, and enjoy the views from its terrace.
- A walk down Rua Dos Flores is lovely with restored buildings, shops, cafes and boutiques. And there are other lovely walks.
- Foz do Douro: Head to Foz do Douro, the neighborhood where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Enjoy a walk along the promenade, relax on the beach, and take in the ocean views.
- Livraria Lello: Visit this iconic bookstore known for its architecture and spiral staircase. The lines to enter are so very long most times even with a ticket that is pre-purchased. Do not compromise seeing something else to visit this one, is my opinion.
- The churches and cathedrals of Porto are stunning. The ornate cathedrals with blue tile exteriors are stunning in Porto and some are remarkable for their size like the Igreja Sao Francisco, the Se’ cathedral, Church of Santo Ildefonso with its blue tiled exterior, Church of Carmo and Carmelitas, and Chapel of Souls.
- Go to local markets
Local tours to vineyards at Porto
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- Port Wine Cellars: Cross the river to Vila Nova de Gaia and visit the port wine cellars. Take a tour about the production process and enjoy Port tasting.
Douro valley about 2 hours away
How to take some Vineyard tours
Top tours as per this article are in
Peso da Régua, one of the main towns in the Douro Valley that serves as a hub for wine production.
Pinhão, a town in the Douro Valley, renowned for its vineyards and picturesque setting.
THE ALGARVE
HIGHLIGHTS (+ to open, - to close)
There is no timeline to enjoy the beach, spend as little or as much time as you like. Although it does offer more than beach. Most likely, if you are visiting the southern region of Portugal, you would be in Lagos or Faro.
Lagos
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- Lagos is a historic coastal town with a picturesque old town and stunning cliffs and beaches. Things to do in Lagos.
- Take a boat tour and visit Ponta da Piedade, known for its striking rock formations.
- The popular Benagil Cave is within driving distance of about 45 minutes.
Faro
Faro is the capital city of the Algarve region in southern Portugal. It is known for its charming old town, historic landmarks, beautiful beaches, and proximity to the Ria Formosa Natural Park.
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- Ilha de Faro, accessible by a short ferry ride, is a popular beach. Praia de Faro offers a more secluded setting.
- Faro Old Town (Cidade Velha) is pretty with narrow cobblestone streets, historic buildings, and picturesque squares.
- Faro Marina in the heart of the city has bars, restaurants, and shops.
- The Ria Formosa Natural Park is a protected coastal lagoon system. Take a boat tour or hike along the trails to explore the park’s beautiful landscapes, including salt pans, marshes, and barrier islands.
- Cathedrals/Churches
Sé Cathedral (13th century), and you can climb its tower for views of the city.
Carmo Church and Bones Chapel: This unique church features a striking facade and a chapel decorated with the bones of more than 1,000 monks. It’s a macabre but interesting!
Faro Cathedral (Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo): This cathedral dates back to the 17th century and features beautiful woodwork and tilework. There is a tower you can climb for panoramic views.
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- You can take boat tours to explore the Ria Formosa or nearby islands. You can also enjoy water activities like kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding.
- To the east of Faro is Albufeira, a resort town known for its lively nightlife, beautiful beaches, and old town charm.
Vegetarian Food in Portugal
HIGHLIGHTS (+ to open, - to close)
One can quite commonly find Vegetarian and Vegan food in Lisbon and Porto. Paella (rice, assorted veggies, chickpeas etc) is one of the local vegetarian items. I have loved the Tapas, Modern fusion Asian street food, Modern healthy fare, Indian food and a variety of other cuisine.
I would highly recommend Zappi’s at Santos market for modern fusion and Pizzas, Soi Asian Food, Honest Greens at Cais Sodre’ and Cozinha de Felicidade at the Time Out Market (though I don’t see it any more). For Indian food, I liked India Gate near Praca do Comercia and Swaagat. I found my way to a restaurant called Chutnify in Principe’ Real, a bit away from the more touristy parts since I was craving Dosas. On my last trip, I had eaten Indian Goan food a few times and had tried the dessert called Bebinca, a layered cake made of eggs and coconut milk, delicacy of Goa, India. My very favorite was the exquisite Peruvian influenced Japanese Sushi at Vela Latina in the Belem area. My other favorite place was in Cascais at a place called Hifen.
As you walk on Rua Augusta, don’t forget to treat yourself to a Pastel de Nata at Manteigaria or eat one at Nataria’s under the Santa Justa elevador. And if you are a beer lover, try the Beer Museum in Praca Comercio that boasts of 80 kinds of beers.
Pink street which is in Bairro Alto, has some good restaurants too. It can get bit rowdy at night with the partying but do go if you love some revelry. Cais Sodre’ is very nice along the river – lovely to have dessert and coffee here or drinks in one of the bars.
In Porto, we had some amazing food too. Tavi had a lovely view of the sea and good food. We had a chef designed seven course meal at Emotivo (pricey but if you want the experience). There is a vegan food buffet restaurant called daTerra near the Se’ in Porto and one in the Baixa, Lisbon.
In Lagos, The Mare on the Promenade has a few good vegetarian options.
Go to the page on global vegetarian cuisines, you are interested to know more about food from different countries that have made it mainstream.
Narrative and Pictures
NARRATIVE (+ to open, - to close)
Spending 3 months in Lisbon was like a storybook romance with a city for me! I could write pages but I won’t. A tidy, modern studio apartment that was smaller than my bedroom in the US with a view of the rive Tejo from my window (or sometimes the view of shipping containers in the dock) was my abode. I walked every day for 2 to 3 hours after a day of actual, intense work on a project. The city gives you a workout like none other I know. Lisbon is a city that is built on different levels due to its hilly terrain and geographical features.
From the apartment, my walk would take me on a overhead bridge, from where one could watch the trains below. Further along, I would reach the river which used to be a wonderful sight. Some days I walk around Praco do Comercio and other days in the Alfama buying essentials from the mini mercados. The souvenir shopkeepers would always try to get me into their shops but in a couple of weeks they realized I am more a local. So they’d ask me different questions like why I was in Lisbon and make conversations.
I found the Alfama so fascinating that I would never tire of walking its narrow alley ways, constantly finding something to look at. Narrow alley ways lead to people’s homes, little hole in the wall restaurants or even opened up to a plaza with a ton of diners, Fado music and dance. It would be an electric atmosphere. There was music on every other street in the Praco do Comercia I would be completely inspired. Especially by an accordion player by the Arch. I was hooked to his playing a waltz and I’d listen to it every night.
I don’t have words to describe this long-time living experience of many weeks versus being a tourist as on previous visits to Lisbon. There is no comparison. I can now claim to know the map of the city like the back of my hand with all the walking I have done. The boundaries blur as I everyday straddled different neighborhoods between Alfama, Cais, Baixa, Bairro Alto and Chiado. One does need to be fit to navigate this city of steep ups and downs on foot. The more time you have the more streets and alleys, more steps you will discover in Lisbon. As you walk uphill there are always good views of something or the other and always good food and drink!
In Sintra this time, my new sights were the Moorish Castle and the Quinta de Regalaria. There are mysterious grottoes, and the Initiation Well, symbolism and mystical elements throughout the estate, including hidden tunnels and secret passages.
Cabo da Roca is worth a visit. You will go stand at the westernmost point of the European continent. The village and houses near the sea were so awesome (the last time I went there in 2007 – don’t know how it has changed as I did not visit it in my 2021 trip). I liked this trip since it passed through some pretty villages and the kids got a thrill standing on the westernmost trip of the continent (and getting a certificate for this :-)). Be very cautious if you hike by the ocean – the rocks can be quite slippery, it can be unsafe with the winds and shoes not being right.
In Porto, the Ribeira looks gorgeous at sunset. Hearing a band and dining down there is perfect! This needs to be experienced by walking from the upper level of the Dom Luis bridge, down many steps to the river through colorful and picturesque alleyways.
The blue tiled churches of Porto were unimaginably ornate. There seems to be a concentration of historic churches in Porto. We went up to the bell tower of the Clerigos and got great views of the city. When in Porto, make sure to visit some local markets.
At the end of my stay in Portugal, we visited the Alentejano e Costa Vicentina in the south and stayed in a small village in a pretty mudhouse for almost a week. It has pristine beaches and a rugged coast. For the first time, I saw goats standing at the edge of cliffs looking ready to tumble down (which they didn’t). We visited the villages of Odemira, Aljezur, Sagres and some others in between. It was a leisurely pace each day and we would sit in a local coffee shop. The highlight of one such outing was a group of men sitting around a table and singing. It seemed like a casual community past time. Time spent at Praia de Monte Clérigo beach and then Aljezur was particularly interesting. During that stay, we visited Lagos by driving through some beautiful coastal scenery. After seeing the tourist bustle at Lagos, I was very happy that we did not actually stay there, there are so many tourists. At Lagos, we did a boat tour of the stunning rock formations at sea.
This trip was in 2006 when I had taken the boys to Lisbon for a holiday. They were 5 and 9 and trudged along everywhere without complaint, including hiking up the hill at Sintra. They enjoyed chasing pigeons at Rua Augusta and other places and the most exciting part of the trip was looking for their favorite soccer player jerseys to buy.
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