Iceland

Iceland Travels To Savour

Cover: Icelandic horses

Iceland is scenery on steroids, hopefully will remain unspoilt for ever. It is also a place where one needs to remember nature is mightier than us and follow their guidelines to the T, whether driving, hiking or touring caves……….we have one Earth and one life to enjoy it. 

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(A) Reykjavik (B) Hella (C) Vik (D) Berufjörður (E) Lake Myvatn (F) Stykkishólmur (G) Snæfellsjökull National Park (H) Borgarnes

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    2. Highlights
    3. Vegetarian/Vegan Food
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Travels To Savour

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Vatnajokull glacier at Hornafjörður
Landmannalaugar
Skogafoss Waterfall
Basalt columns at Reynisfjara Beach
TIDBITS (+ to open, - to close)

Tidbits

While regular cars and SUVs would work in most places, it may help to drive a 4×4 depending on where all one decides to visit. The F roads of Iceland can be very difficult and even hazardous when weather conditions are not good. One has to exercise a lot of caution and make sure to follow all the rules when driving in Iceland.

​Iceland uses 220 volt, 60 cycle electricity. Plugs are typically two round prongs, and uses adapter types “C” or “F”.

The currency used in Iceland is the Krona (surprise! not Euros). Credit cards are quite commonly used in Iceland (Visa and MC more than Amex and Discover) but it is up to you to be aware of any foreign transaction fees charged by your credit card company.

Best time to visit Iceland depends on what you want to see and do, for example, summer activities or the Northern Lights. Check out when it would be a good time for your interests.

Native language is Icelandic, people are fluent in English.

About the blog

Written by Jyothi Shankar. Thanks to Uma Manjunath for spending time with me to relate her travel experiences, veg food recommendations and sharing pictures of Reykjavik, the Golden Circle, the Highlands and the Western Fjords.  Thanks to Malathy Chandrasekhar for telling me of their journey in the North and Eastern sides of Iceland, and along with pictures, including the cover pictures of the Icelandic horses.  Thanks to Meena Prakash to have shared pictures and her experience with vegetarian food along with recommendations. Thanks to Sudhanshoo Sood, the most recent Iceland visitor I know from Sydney, for contributing his pictures. This collective contribution enabled me to dig up more information on each place and write about what they told me too.

Iceland Highlights

The below section suggests activities for about 10-12 days in Iceland.

Iceland simply has loads of jaw-dropping stuff to see. To visit several regions and do justice to them, you will need 10-12 days as shown by the route in this blog. But of course, you can pick and choose, tailor it to your own time and interests. If you are flying into Reykjavik and plan to drive all over Iceland, you will take Route 1, also known as the Ring Road map above).  Pick 5 to 6 places to stay along this route and then venture into all the off-shoot locations shown by the blue pins on the map.

It is assumed that you are doing this itinerary in the summer months of June to September. Even so, be aware that the weather conditions can change rapidly in Iceland. Book accommodations and activities well in advance, especially during the peak tourist season.

These highlights will let you visit incredible waterfalls, glaciers, glacial lagoons, and highlands, see some crazy geothermal activity, birds, and animals, and go on amazing hikes.

Godafoss Waterfall
Diamond beach black sand
Lagoons
HIGHLIGHTS (+ to open, - to close)
Travels To Savour
Blue Lagoon
Travels To Savour

Reykjavik and beyond

Explore the city’s landmarks and beyond

      • Hallgrímskirkja Church
      • Harpa Concert Hall
      • The Sun Voyager sculpture
      • Visit Hafnarfjörður for geothermal pools, lava, natural phenomena and local experiences
      • Visit Blue Lagoon, about 50 minutes from Reykjavík

Golden Circle

The Golden Circle can be leisurely done in one day.

      • Thingvellir National Park (25 miles from Reykjavik)
      • Geysir geothermal area
      • Gullfoss waterfall
      • Detours to Kerið crater, a volcanic lake (easy hike around it)
      • Secret Lagoon (Gamla Laugin) would be on the way if you feel like more lagoons!
      • The above circuit will take 5 to 6 hours or less at a leisurely pace
      • Enjoy the vibrant restaurant scene and nightlife at Reykjavik

Landmannalauger Highlands

      • Landmannalauger highlands, about 1.5 hours east from Reykjavik if you take an easy route (much longer with all the stops).
      • The lava fields, the mountains, hot springs and a geothermal pool. Great hiking trails here from easy to very hard.
      • This drive is not for everyone if you are doing a self-drive – some routes can be hazardous. Read a lot about it. And checkout this useful link. On the way on the easiest route of the three (F 26 and F 208) you can stop by the Sigöldugljùfur falls.
Landmannalaugar
Walk to Gulfoss waterfall
Svartifoss waterfall
Vatnajökull glacier
Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon

Drive along the South Coast: Hella to Vatnajokull National Park to End of East Fjords

      • This area could take 2 days if one wanted to do hikes, ice caving tour etc.
      • Visit the Seljalandsfoss waterfall (the waterfall lays underneath the well-known Eyfjallajokull, the volcano that erupted in 2010).
      • Visit Skogafoss waterfall (iconic one featured in Game of Thrones)
      • Glacier hike about 2 hrs – Sólheimajökull is an outlet glacier coming down the fourth biggest glacier of Iceland, called Mýrdalsjökull.
      • Continue to Vík (small fishing village of Vik i Myrdal)

At and around Vik i Myrdal

      • At Vik, visit the amazing black sand Reynisfjara Beach known for its dramatic natural landscapes: hexagonal basalt columns, the Halsanefshellir Sea Cave, and large rock formations that rise out of the sea.
      • Continue to Skaftafell National Park various hiking trails, including the one leading to Svartifoss waterfall that has basalt columns.
      • Skaftafell is a wilderness area in Iceland’s Vatnajökull National Park with huge glaciers. One could opt to do The Vatnajökull glacier ice caving tour that takes about 4 hours.
      • Or you could go to nearby Skaftárhreppur, a part of Katla UNESCO Global Geopark.

Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach

These are at a distance of about 2.5 hours from Vik.

Hverir, a large geothermal field
Northern lights Iceland

East Fjords and Up

      • Drive through the scenic East Fjords, stopping at fishing villages and enjoying the stunning coastal views.
      • Drive northwest to Lake Mývatn. Visit Lake Mývatn, a unique area with geothermal activity and diverse birdlife. Nature Baths here have a naturally heated man-made lagoon, with mineral-rich waters known for their health-giving properties.

Northern Region

      • Explore craters at Skútustaðir and Dimmuborgir lava formations
      • A short distance away, near Námafjall Mountain, is Hverir, a hot-springs area with amazing boiling mud pots and fumaroles and using the heat, the icelandic rye bread is baked.
      • This is also a good place for wild birds and viewing northern lights.
      • If you are feeling more adventurous and want to see more falls and do hikes, in this area you would visit Dettifoss, and the nearby Selfoss waterfall and go to Ásbyrgi Canyon for hiking trails.
      • Or go to Siglufjörður, an old fishing town in the northern highlands.
      • Drive to Akureyri, you will be close to the magnificent Godafoss waterfall. Akureyri, is an interesting town one will pass through. A glimpse of Christianity, stories, trolls, murals.
      • Head to Húsavík, the whale-watching capital of Iceland. Can take a boat tour.
Bárður Snæfellsás​
Hraunfossar waterfalls in Borgarfjörður

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the West

      • Drive to town of Stykkishólmur. Eplore the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, known for its diverse landscapes. The Snaefelsness peninsula is home to the iconic Snæfellsjökull volcano in Snaefellsjokull National Park, the Kirkjufell mountain and viewpoint, the Vatnashellir cave, black sand beaches like Dritvik, hot spring geysers and waterfalls.
      • Hike Arnarstapi to Hellnar, walking along the cliffs and seashore. You will see the much-photographed Bárður Snæfellsás, mythical protector of this peninsula, at Arnarstapi.
      • Drive back to Reykjavik via Borgarnes. You could visit Borgarfjörður, a fjord nearby, and see the Hraunfossar waterfalls near this town and if you are not overwhelmed by all the sights by now!

Vegetarian Food in Iceland

Food and views
Vegetarian food in Iceland
Vegan food in Iceland
VEG FOOD (+ to open, - to close)
Lovely way to wake up
Bakery
Good tea and coffee chain

Typical local food in Iceland revolves around fish, lamb and skyr (a type of yogurt). How easy is it to find vegetarian and vegan Food? It is super-easy!!

In Reykjavik there are modern healthy food options offered in vegan restaurants and plenty of other kinds of cuisine.

Gardurinn, Kaffi Vinyl and Glo’ is one such place for healthy vegetarian options. For a good cup of coffee, the chain Te&Kaffi should serve you some excellent coffee.

In addition, there are other cuisines like Thai, Indian, Ethiopian, and the usual pizzas, noodles, sandwich shops etc. Some of the Asian and Indian places that come recommended by friends are Krua Thai, Thai Kitchen, Gandhi Indian. Another Indian restaurant in town with a non-Indian name is  Hraðlestin. Checkout their Dosa pictures.

Meena says, “Our daughter who traveled with us to Iceland, is vegan. She found these nice places for us to explore.  Iceland is very vegan friendly. Grocery stores carried vegan cheese and other vegan condiments and such. Whenever we couldn’t find a place to eat or were just on the road, we carried a loaf of bread and other essentials to fix a quick sandwich. We got ourselves tasty picnic food in the midst of nowhere with breathtaking scenery!!”

Below, I list some unusual kinds of food one can try.

Try to find a place that does ‘Earth Cooking’. They make use of geothermal power from natural sources. There was a good place off Rt 1 that closed their doors but may be able to find another.

Looking for anything weird and unique? Here is one if you want to try it when you extend the trip to the Golden circle a little. Friðheimar serves tomato-based dishes from their greenhouse and calls it a unique dining experience. It does say to book in advance. You will try several preparations with tomatoes. Hold your breath now! There is Tomato beer, peanut tomato soup, Tomato soup with homemade bread and cucumber salsa, tomato syrup in coffee with whiskey liqueur, just to mention a few. While tomatoes are not quite my thing, I am game to try, so bring on the reds!

I have several restaurants I can recommend to those traveling which are not listed here since some restaurants can come and go, they need to be checked as one gets close to a trip. There are many great choices for vegan and vegetarian food in that list.

Go to the page on global vegetarian cuisines, you are interested to know more about various vegetarian cuisines.

Narrative and Pictures

​What’s the latest “hot” travel destination? Iceland, that’s right! An explosion of scenery as we have seen in pictures and as described by those who have visited.

A friend of mine from Chicago told me she met some Icelanders who were in the US as tourists. They were bitterly complaining about the Chicago winter. We had a good laugh – ha! They thought they could get one up on the Chicago cold?!

On a Facebook cooking group that I belong to, people are asking each other if they need to carry their Instant Pot to Iceland because they think it will be hard to find vegetarian food there, or it would be very expensive. It is not hard to find but it truly is expensive. Something else I see on Facebook is that many of my Indian friends carrying their sarees along and posing for pictures in Iceland! It is like Bollywood coming alive and another Switzerland in the making.

NARRATIVE (+ to open, - to close)
Along the way
Travels To Savour
Travels To Savour

Perhaps one of the first places you will start with is, Reykjavik and its lovely city center. The sight of the soaring cathedral, Hallgrímskirkja,  rising majestically in the center, and its modern architecture, will not fail to impress. A walk along the Arctic coastline that hugs the city, watching the beautiful sculpture of the Sun Voyager against the water, the setting Sun and mountains at a distance, all seem like the right “sight appetizers” before a meal in the city! A photograph of the night view of the city from the top of the church, as the lights shone on colorful rooftops, was as fairytale like as it could get!

Very close and Southwest of Reykjavik, is the town of Hafnarfjörður if you are wanting geothermal pools, lava , natural phenomena and local experiences.  Not too far a drive from the international airport.  From here, the Blue lagoon is a short and easy trip.

Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral
Thingvellir National Park
Kerið crater....hike down

Almost all tourists do the Golden circle route even if they do not visit other parts of Iceland. The Golden Circle is a common route between 3 beautiful natural attractions in Iceland; Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park, Geysir geothermal area and Gullfoss waterfall. The Game of thrones fans will know of its location shot at Thingvellir national park. Seljalandsfoss, along with Skogafoss, is often included in the Golden Circle route.

As you traverse the Golden Circle, you could take detours to other attractions such as Kerið crater and Secret Lagoon (the-not-so-secret). There are several hot springs around the Secret Lagoon, such as Vaðmálahver, Básahver, Litli Geysir.

(A) Reykjavik (B) The Golden Circle and other detours (C) Geysir (D) Gulfoss (E) Back to Reykjavik (F) Selfoss (G) Sigöldugljùfur Falls (H) Landmannalauger Highlands  (I) Hella or Back to Selfoss 

Landmannalauger highlands, about 1.5 hours east from Reykjavik if you take an easy route (much longer with all the stops). The lava fields, the mountains that change color with light, hot springs and a geothermal pool. Great hiking trails here from easy to very hard.

This drive is not for everyone if you are doing a self-drive – some routes can be hazardous. Read a lot about it. And checkout this very good link for driving information.

On the way on the easiest route of the 3 (F 26 and F 208) you can stop by the Sigöldugljùfur falls.

​You will perhaps cover the active Hekla volcano as you do these parts (in the general direction but not that close) but be sure to carry out food if you are a vegetarian and aren’t sure what you will find out here. Sleep in the vicinity of Selfoss or Hella. From here, if you are driving east to do the rest of Iceland, follow the first map.

Landmannalaugar - southern highlands
Basalt columns Reynisfjara beach
Diamond Beach
Skogafoss waterfall

As you drive through Hella and onto Vik, passing the beautiful Seljalandsfoss Waterfall enroute.  You will also pass the old houses of Drangshlíð. Lots of elves stories from here. Vik is known for its black sand beach, Reynisfjara beach with strong waves and basalt rocks. From here you will drive on #1 towards Diamond beach. You might stop at Skaftárhreppur, a part of Katla UNESCO Global Geopark. The very delicate moss is a sight to behold. Onto Hornafjörður from where you can access the large Vatnajokull national park with the largest ice glacier, caves, lakes and lagoons of unimaginable beauty. You can walk right upto the Vatnajökull glacier, the largest in Europe. Breiðárlón is a glacier lake at the south end of it. Not far is the glacial lagoon, Jökulsárlón.

You might also get to see the Icelandic Puffin bird, the magnificent Icelandic thoroughbred horses. You will drive towards Hofn next, and onto the East fjords at Berufjörður, The East Fjords is a 120 km long stretch of coastline from Berufjörður, in the south, to the small fishing village of Borgarfjörður Eystri, in the north.

Drangshlíð old houses
Moss....Skaftárhreppur
Godafoss waterfall
Hofsos Infinity Pool

On to Mývatn in the east, one of the most interesting regions. Stop by the Dimmuborgir Lava fields and structures in Skútustaðahreppur on the way. Lava had come out of fissures and created these vast and eerie landscape of conical structures. Ten minutes from here, is Hverfjall in the Lake Kyvatn area, one of the best preserved circular volcanic craters and believed to the largest in the world! The Hverfjall hike takes you up to the rim of the crater and offers magnificent views all around. Mývatn has a big volcanic lake. Nature Baths here have a naturally heated man-made lagoon, with mineral-rich waters known for their health-giving properties.

A short distance away, near Námafjall Mountain, is Hverir, a hot-springs area with amazing  boiling mud pots and fumaroles and using the heat, the icelandic rye bread is baked. Also, a good place for wild birds and viewing northern lights.  Next, as you drive from here onto  Akureyri, you will be close to the magnificent Godafoss waterfall.  Akureyri, is an interesting town one will pass through. A glimpse of Christianity, stories, trolls, murals.

Siglufjörður, an old fishing town in the northern highlands, is now on the tourist map. It is a detour from Rt 1 and you have to drive to the northern tip. Worth a mention is the Hofsós infinity swimming pool built into the hillside above the sea, the views over to Drangey are breathtaking.

This region was covered by my friends Malathy and Chandru, and they say they saw few tourists here compared to other places, given its remoteness.

In a lagoon
Kirkjufell
Ponies

​The Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the West

The Snaefelsness peninsula is home to Snaefellsjokull National Park, the Kirkjufell mountain and viewpoint, the Vatnashellir cave, black sand beaches like Dritvik, hot spring geysers, waterfalls, many small villages and towns. Also present here is the stones structure, Bárður Snæfellsás, Mythical Protector of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

As you drive back to Reykjavik you can stop at Borgarnes and visit the Settlement Center where you can see Icalandic history come alive. It is devoted to recreating Iceland’s best-known heroes of the Icelandic Sagas, Egil Skalla-Grimsson (with a beautiful monument and a sad story). ​Another popular tourist attraction near here is Borgarfjordur, a fjord. You can visit the Hraunfossar waterfalls here that is covered in old lava, with rivers and streams running in between, creating some of the most stunning waterfalls in Iceland.

Glacier West Fjords
West fjords

The Remote Western Fjords

The Westfjords, a place to view endless fjords, are more out of the way and least touristy, perhaps best reached by flight, if you want that on your itinerary, says Uma. It has some amazing scenery as well. You will see ICelandic puffin birds in many other places but perhaps catchseveral of them here too. Some primary attractions here are Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, Latrabjarg Cliffs,, Dynjandi Waterfall, Raudasandur Beach and Flatey Island. Read descriptions here.

The Icelandic Puffin

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